The Jung diesel is designed to be assembled using simple hand tools; patience and care rather than any great technical skills are demanded in its construction.
The first stage of the build is to prepare the body moulding. It is moulded with a plinth (indicated by the hatched lines) which needs to be removed. I recommend scoring round the base of the body using a craft knife until the plinth is parted from the body.
Following this the window and door openings are pierced through. I use a sewing needle held in a pin vice to scribe round the inside of these openings until almost broken through. Light pressure with a screwdriver then snaps out the resin to leave the aperture clear.
The chassis mounting blocks and couplers require any flash removing. I pare it away with a sharp craft knife.
The chassis mounting blocks are glued into the ends of the body with the tongues uppermost. The base of the blocks must be level with the bottom edge of the body to ensure the loco rides evenly at the correct height.
With the chassis mounting blocks securely fixed, using the locating dimple on the front and rear buffer beams as a centre mark 2.5mm holes are drilled through both buffer beam and body mounting block. I would advise using a smaller (say 1mm) drill to make a pilot hole before opening out to the larger size. The couplers shanks are pushed into these holes, the coupler lined up level and glued into place.
I find the next stage to be the most demanding as the exhausts are delicate. Ther are two styles provided in the kit, both will require flash to be removed.
The conventional style exhaust (straight with a centre silencer section) as seen in my fully finished model here, is located in a hole drilled in the bonnet top centred on the moulded dimple. The hole diameter is best matched to your cleaned up exhaust, though I find something in the order of 1.4mm about right.
The prototypical Jung style exhaust (shown below) is a short stub which will require cleaning up and cutting off from the sprue. The curved lower edge will require trimming and filing back, I keep the spue on the level top edge to act as a handle whilst I do this. Once it fits against the curve of the cab roof I again use the sprue handle to locate it for glueing. Once set the sprue can be nipped off with a small pair of side cutters and the top sanded flat.
All that remains now is to check that the finished loco rides level on the Tsugawa chassis. Minor adjustments can be made by shimming up the low end with small rectangles of cartridge paper stuck to the underside of the low end chassis mounting block tongue.
You may want to add weight to the loco by glueing equal amounts of lead above each chassis mounting block before fixing the chassis in place. It may be possible to engineer a screw fixing through the chassis into one of the tongues, but I glue the chassis into the body after testing and painting.
